Leather

What is leather?

Leather is a material derived from animal skin. It is treated to make it resistant to deterioration through a process called tanning, carried out either vegetally or chemically. There are different types of leather: domestic from lambskin and calfskin, for example, woolly hides and exotic leathers from crocodiles, pythons and so on. Each leather also differs according to its grain, the way it is tanned and its appearance (smooth, crisp, aged, greasy, patent). Leather is known for being a supple and resistant medium, and is used to make all kinds of products such as clothing, bags, shoes and more.

Where does leather come from?

In terms of animals, although leather can come from exotic animals such as crocodile or python, for example, 99% of leather produced worldwide comes from 4 different animals: 65% cows, 15% sheep, 11% pigs and 9% goats (2019 data, percentages vary by year).

In terms of producing countries, leather is mostly produced in different countries depending on the animal. There are 6 main producers of tanned leather: China, Italy, India, Brazil, Korea and Russia. Even so, China remains the world's leading producer in the leather industry, with 36% of global exports in 2018.
If we refer to the type of leather now, Spain is, for example, the benchmark for lamb leather, France and the Netherlands for calf leather. Goat skins tend to come from India, Pakistan or Nigeria.

Material transformation processes (from animal to garment)

As you know, leather can come from large hides ( cows, calves, bulls etc) or smaller ones (lambs, sheep, goats). In this section, we'll be looking at the tanning process for large hides, but the process for small hides is called megisserie, and follows exactly the same steps.

A large number of stages are involved in the transformation of leather. This transformation of raw hide into hard-wearing finished leather is called tanning, and is made up of 4 main stages (river work, tanning, currying and finishing), each involving different processes. It's a fairly long process, lasting on average around 4 weeks.
Once the hides have been removed from the animals, we need to act quickly, as 75% of their weight is water, and they degrade in just a few hours. To prevent the growth of microbes and bacteria that cause this degradation, the skins must be dehydrated. The most widespread method is salting, which is simple and economical. Other methods are possible, such as drying and freezing, but are less widely used because they are more costly. At this point, the tanner buys batches of skins of uniform quality, but very dirty.

The tanner then begins what is known as the river process, which consists of several stages. Firstly, the hides must be rehydrated and desalinated. The hides are immersed in water baths of around 5 times their weight, to which an antiseptic is added to prevent putrefaction and degradation of the grain and hide fibers in the vat. This is followed by the next stage, called depilating: chemicals are used to destroy the keratin and surface epidermis. Next, peeling prepares the skin by altering the fibers to make it more receptive to future treatments. It is at this point that the suppleness of the finished leather is defined: the more the fibers are degraded, the more supple the leather will be.
Next comes fleshing, when a fleshing machine removes all subcutaneous tissue, leaving only the dermis, which will be transformed into leather.
Next, the skin is delimed. The ph of the skins, then too basic, is brought down to 7 by soaking in vats filled with water, salts or acids. These are set in motion to accelerate the process. This step must be carried out with caution, as a ph that is too acidic will denature the skin.

The hide is then tanned, the action of transforming the hide into leather, i.e. a totally bare hide, free of hair and other residues. Tanning involves dehydrating putrescible (rotting) hides and attaching chemical agents to make them rot-proof and resistant.
Several tanning agents exist. Firstly, there are vegetable tanning agents, which exist in the form of concentrated, chemically-enhanced powders derived from various plants. This is the most qualitative method, but it is also very time-consuming for the tanner, as the hide must be passed alternately between 8 and 15 days in 5 to 8 vats containing increasingly concentrated solutions. Chromium is also used as a tanning agent in 80% of cases, as it is much more economical. Leather is obtained in 24 hours. Other types of tanning exist, such as aluminum and zirconium. They enable us to obtain specific leathers, but are much less widely used due to their cost and lack of expertise.
It's only after this tanning stage that we're no longer obliged to speak of hides but of leather.

However, the leather is not yet suitable for making objects. In a number of stages, the corroding process will render the leather suitable for manufacture.
At this point, the tanner can re-sort the leather according to defects and thickness.
The hides can then be split into 2 sheets: the grain (the outer side) and the crust. The aim is to double the surface area of the product for sale, depending on the intended use. It is then neutralized to remove any acidity and facilitate the penetration of chemicals.
It can then be tinted and nourished with fish oil for suppleness and long life.

Finally, the leather is dried (on a frame, suspended or in a vacuum). This is a very important stage for quality, because if it's too fast, the leather will be stiff, and if it's too slow, the tannery will no longer be profitable.
Finally, we move on to leather finishing. The best hides are not sanded, while the least beautiful are sanded to the same degree as the number of defects.
All that remains is to give the leather the desired look and texture, so that it's ready to be worked. This can be done by satining or graining (to give a pattern), dry fulling (to soften), corking (to create surface wrinkles) or smoothing.

Is leather compatible with ethical and responsible fashion?

By definition, leather can be compatible with ethical and responsible fashion in the sense that it is a co-product of meat. It is produced with waste from the meat and milk industries.
But in reality, leather cannot be said to be compatible with ethical fashion for a variety of reasons.

Firstly, as explained above, during processing, leather comes into contact with a multitude of chemicals such as chromium. But there are 2 problems with chromium. In some tanneries in India or Bangladesh, which produce leather at low cost and where there are few (if any) protective regulations, working conditions are deplorable: workers walk barefoot in toxic fumes, handle acid causing skin disease and even cancer. They are rarely equipped with masks or goggles, and are therefore unprotected from the fumes that can cause serious respiratory disorders. Apart from workers directly exposed, chromium and other chemicals don't disappear on their own. They end up in nearby rivers and groundwater, poisoning local populations.

Then there's the problem of animals. In China and India, there are no sanctions against animal abuse in the skin industry, and animals are cruelly killed after spending extreme periods of confinement in dirty cages or pens, undergoing castration without painkilling treatment, suffering chronic infections etc. In addition, around two million cats and dogs (sometimes butchered alive) are also killed in China for their skins. In India, where cows are sacred and it is illegal to kill young, healthy cows, a practice has developed of poisoning them or making them lame so that they can be slaughtered.
We won't go into further explanation, but this little glimpse is chilling.
So it's important to opt for European leathers, which are subject to much stricter regulations and better-established traceability (even if everything isn't perfect).

The LWG (Leather Working Group) label certifies that leather production is environmentally friendly and socially responsible.
Naturleder is another European label that aims to reduce the social and environmental impact of leather. It covers all stages of leather processing, from raw material to sale, but does not concern the finished product. It meets environmental criteria, tanning must be carried out using plant-based products, and it guarantees social criteria for workers throughout the production chain.
So choose leather with a label, if possible produced with vegetable tanning.

Another option is another type of leather: recycled leather. Composed of 80% crushed leather scraps and 20% vegetable and synthetic matter, it's a healthier and equally hard-wearing option that limits waste production. It's also known as regenerated leather. Its ecological impact is much lower than that of conventional leather. Opting for recycled leather means not wasting resources and slowing down the rather polluting production of leather.

Alternatives to animal leather are possible: faux leathers (plastic leathers) and vegetable leathers made from pineapple, for example. But ultimately, if we're looking to replace leather for the sake of our environmental footprint, the former are to be proscribed from the outset as they are 100% derived from petroleum, the fossil fuel par excellence, and what's more they cancel out all the benefits of natural leather such as its breathability or robustness, for example.
Vegetable leathers are a good alternative if you're looking for a vegan option, but they're not so virtuous either. In fact, trying to imitate the look and functions of animal leather requires a chemical process that will consume 50% of the finished product (the fruit fibers can't attach themselves, they'll be attached to a support: polyurethane resin, a plastic derived from petroleum...

The best alternative remains to buy your leather garments from second hand in order to limit the production of this material and give a second life to products already created.

Do leather have other advantages?

In addition to its robustness and durability, leather has other advantageous characteristics. Leather resists tearing and wear, making it an ally over time. It's a breathable material, making it ideal for combating perspiration. It is permeable to water vapor and can also absorb large quantities of water, which then dissipates. Leather also has natural antifungal properties, which will help limit the appearance of fungal infections (if you wear leather shoes, for example). Its thermoregulatory properties make it a material of choice in both winter and summer.
Finally, let's talk style! Leather is a timeless material, always in fashion, whatever the season or era. It's an elegant material that always stands out from other materials. It doesn't chip or crack, so to check whether the piece you've fallen for is genuine leather, simply pinch lightly and look at the result.

How to care for leather

Leather is a technical material that requires specific care if it is to last as long as possible.
The most important thing to remember is that leather should never be put in the washing machine - it won't tolerate it. Follow these few tips to make sure you preserve your beautiful pieces as much as possible.
First and foremost, as soon as you acquire a leather piece, it's very important to waterproof and moisturize them regularly using products designed for this purpose.
It all starts when you put your garment away after wearing it. Dust your garments as soon as you take them off, to avoid trapping external dirt. If the dirt is too stubborn, gently rub the stained garment with a damp cloth before drying it with a clean cloth. If you're wearing a very thick leather garment, like a motorcycle jacket for example, clean it with a soft bristle brush to avoid scratching it.
Only hang your clothes on hangers; don't fold them or hang them on a coat rack. The latter actions risk distorting the garment or even cracking it over time.
In the event of a stain, use only special leather cleaning products; any other product not designed for this purpose risks damaging your garment.


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