Mohair

What is Mohair?

Mohair is a specific high-quality wool, so it's a material of animal origin. It's the name given to wool from the coats of Angora goats from Asia Minor (not to be confused with Angora, which comes from Angora rabbits). These goats originally come from the Ankara region of Turkey. Angora is characterized by its silky-fine down. It is renowned for its strength, shine and thermal qualities: mohair is insulating and thermoregulating. Mohair is originally white, but has dyeing affinities, meaning it can be dyed very easily and intensifies the brilliance of colors. In addition to "classic" mohair, kid mohair comes from young kids, making the fiber even finer and softer.
It's a rare material, accounting for just 1% of total natural fiber production.

Where does mohair come from?

Mohair originally comes from the plateaus of the Ankara region in Turkey (formerly known as Angora), where it was appreciated for its softness and warmth.
Over the centuries, breeding spread to other parts of the world. Today, most mohair is produced in South Africa (54%), Lesotho (12%), the United States (11%) and Australia (8%).
There are also several hundred French farms, representing around 3,500 Angora goats in France, particularly in the south of the country.
Around 20,000 tons of mohair are produced worldwide every year.

What are the processing stages for mohair? (from animal to garment)

Various stages are involved in the transformation of mohair, from the angora goat to the pretty sweater you're wearing.
First of all, the animals are shorn generally once a year, in spring, to recover their fleece. The fleece is then cleaned of any impurities and dried naturally.
Once dry, the fleece is carded, i.e. combed to remove knots and fibers that may be too short. It is then spun to create a strong, elastic yarn that can be used to make various types of fabric, such as knitwear, weaving and yarns.
There are a number of spinning techniques that produce yarn of varying degrees of softness and fineness. Hand spinning, for example, is a long and costly process, but results in finer and, above all, softer yarns. Machine spinning, on the other hand, is a much faster and more economical process, producing thicker, softer yarns.
Fabrics are then dyed according to customer requirements and used to make garments or other accessories.

Does mohair have any other advantages?

In addition to its quality, shine and softness, mohair naturally wicks away moisture and doesn't retain perspiration odors. It's also thermoregulatory and has strong thermal insulation properties, making it the ideal material to wear in winter and summer alike! What's more, this material reflects light, giving your garments an incomparable sheen.

Is mohair compatible with ethical and responsible fashion?

Technically mohair is compatible with ethical and responsible fashion in the sense that it's a natural fiber that doesn't require chemicals or pesticides to grow and be harvested. In practice, however, this is not always the case.
In fact, PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animal), a label that fights for animal rights, highlighted barbaric, animal-exploiting practices on numerous farms in 2018, prompting nearly 150 brands to stop marketing the material. The farms in question mistreat animals, with a view to ever-increasing production and yield. Among other things, they identified malnutrition, violence and the desertification of pastures...

So mohair production is ethical and responsible only if the animals and the environment around them are respected. Breeding must be carried out in good conditions, i.e. with respect for both animal welfare and the land on which they live. To ensure this, since 2020 there has been the RMS ( Responsible Mohair Standard) label, which guarantees best practice in land management, respect for goat welfare throughout their lives ( rearing, shearing, end of life) and transparent communication about their practices.

It's also important to know that Angora goats are bred solely for their hair (unlike Merino sheep, which are bred for their meat, and their coat is a "bonus"). So the better the goats are treated by their breeders, the more beautiful the wool will be.

Nor should we overlook the environmental impact of goats, which are bovids and have an impact on greenhouse gas emissions, mainly due to their release of CO2 and methane. Or the environmental impact of transporting raw materials to factories and then to our cupboards.
All in all, it's essential to take a good look at the label when you're faced with a mohair garment. As well as thinking about your environmental footprint, buying ethically and responsibly also means thinking about animal welfare.

How to care for mohair?

It's important to care for mohair correctly to maintain its superb appearance and longevity.
It's a very delicate wool, so we recommend spacing out washings, using gentle products and cold water. The best way to clean it is by hand whenever possible, but a washing machine is still a plausible option. However, you need to be careful with the settings, which should be set to low temperatures and the lowest possible spin program. If you wish, you can place your mohair garments in a pillowcase or washing net.
Wool-mohair garments should never be tumble-dried, as the heat damages the fibers. Instead, hang dry in the open air. It's also important not to iron your garments.
Care should also be taken not to wring or rub mohair to prevent damage. It's best to store the garment in a clean, dry place to avoid mildew and moths.


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