Lyocell

What is Lyocell?

Lyocell is an artificial chemical material made from wood pulp. It is also known as Tencel®, which is a registered trademark of the Austrian company Lenzig. Lyocell is an artificial cellulose fiber (hence the name Lyocell: LYOphilization and CELLulose), whose natural fiber is regenerated and transformed by man. Although man-made, this fiber is manufactured using a closed-circuit system, recycling most of the solvents used, to avoid too great a flow of chemicals into the waste stream. Close to viscose in feel, Lyocell is strong, very soft, resistant and breathable.

What countries produce and export Lyocell?

Lyocell is mainly produced in China, home to numerous production plants. The United States is also a major producer, with several manufacturing plants in North Carolina and Georgia. Austria is a major player in production, with Lenzing AG one of the world's leading producers of cellulose fibers. Germany and Japan are also key players in Lyocell production. Annual global Lyocell production is estimated at around 300,000 tonnes of fibre, or about 0.25 th of global textile fibre production.

How is Lyocell made?

The manufacture of lyocell begins with the harvesting of wood, which is often obtained from eucalyptus. Nevertheless, it's also common to find lyocell made from oak, bamboo and even birch. The wood is then broken down into small pieces, to which chemicals are added to dissolve it and produce a wood pulp. The result is a liquid, sticky, honey-like raw cellulose. The solvents used in this process do not alter the chemical structure of the cellulose, they simply serve to transform it. This liquid mixture is then heated and further broken down into small pieces using a chemical solvent. After being filtered, the cellulose goes through a spinning process that transforms it into long, fine fibers.
These fibers are then washed, dried and lubricated, ready to be spun and woven into the final lyocell fabric. At this final stage, the lyocell fabric is cut and processed into a variety of products we use every day.
It should be noted that lyocell fibers can be marketed under different brand names, such as Lyocell, Seacell, Newcell and Tencel. The chemical composition remains the same, only the company behind these names may vary.

Is Lyocell compatible with ethical and responsible fashion?

Advantages of Lyocell
- Lyocell is a great alternative, more environmentally friendly than viscose: its fiber is 100 % biodegradable and compostable (if garments aren't mixed with other synthetic fibers). Being made from wood pulp, lyocell products decompose in just a few months, which is much faster than other plastic-based items that can take up to 100 years to degrade.
- Production uses fewer natural resources: for one hectare of eucalyptus tree, you get around 4 tons of lyocell, compared with just one ton for cotton. Secondly, producing 1 kg of Lyocell requires around 2,000 liters of water, 5 times less than cotton.
- The chemical solvents used (NMMO - N-methylmorpholine - N - oxyde) for production are non-toxic and non-hazardous for workers.
- Lyocell is produced in a 99% closed loop: it's part of a circular production process, the chemicals involved in transforming the material can be used ad infinitum.

Disadvantages of Lyocell
- The price is twice as expensive as viscose. Lyocell fibers, which are inexpensive, are often of low quality; to date, only Tencel®-Lyocell is reliable and environmentally friendly.
- It's best to choose Lyocell garments with FSC, PEFC or Canopy Style certifications, which ensure that the recovered cellulose comes from sustainably managed forests, in order to combat deforestation.

How to care for Lyocell?

Lyocell, this durable and versatile fiber requires appropriate care to maintain and extend its lifespan. Prefer machine or hand washing at low temperatures, and avoid tumble drying, direct sunlight and harsh chemicals. When ironing, use a low-temperature setting only if necessary, as lyocell is a low-crease material.


Discover our selection of lyocell clothing for women at l'Exception
Discover our selection of lyocell clothing for men at l'Exception