by L'Exception, on June 2, 2022
What is elastane?
Elastane is a contraction of the words "elastic" and "polyurethane". It's made from polyurethane, a molecule derived from petroleum. Elastane is also known as "K-fiber", "Spandex" or "Lycra" (a registered trademark). It is a synthetic textile fiber widely used in the fashion industry for its elasticity. It is appreciated for its resistance, dimensional stability and hydrophobic properties, making it quick-drying. Elastane is mainly used in sportswear, underwear, swimwear, overalls, tights and decorative fabrics.
Where does elastane come from?
Elastane mainly comes from Asian countries: China, Japan and South Korea are the main elastane-producing countries with 75% of global production, followed by North America, the USA and Canada. In 2019, 860,000 tonnes of elastane were produced.
How is elastane manufactured?
Elastane is made with polyurethane, a petroleum-based molecule. It is dissolved in a chemical solvent called dimethylacetamide, then dry-spun through a spinneret in a stream of hot air. Since elastane fibers have adhesive properties, they are coated with silicone oils to prevent them from sticking together. Elastane yarn can then be blended with other types of natural or synthetic fibers.
Recycled elastane, on the other hand, is mostly derived from "pre-consumer" waste, meaning that the material has not yet been blended with other fabrics or sold to consumers. To make recycled elastane, the fibers are depolymerized, then repolymerized before being spun.
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Is elastane compatible with ethical and responsible fashion?
Benefits of elastane
- Elastane is hydrophobic, a material that absorbs very little moisture and dries quickly.
- It's an elastic, comfortable material, widely used for sports.
Disadvantages of elastane
- Elastane is made from 85% of a petroleum-derived molecule, polyurethane, a non-renewable fossil fuel. It's a material that uses solvents and harmful chemicals in its manufacture.
- Elastane is a non-biodegradable material that is difficult to recycle, as it is often mixed with other materials in clothing.
- Like polyester , elastane releases micro-plastics into the ocean and rivers. A machine filled with synthetic garments (polyester, elastane, PVC, Nylon) releases around 700,000 plastic microparticles.
- The lifespan of elastane is short, it's not very heat-resistant, which is why some swimsuits or leggings, after a machine or drying, get damaged quite quickly.
Possible alternatives
- Buy recycled materials such as recycled elastane. RCS (Recycled Content Standard), GRS (Global Recycle Standard), SCS Recycled Content certifications ensure that elastane fibers are indeed recycled.
- Use a wash bag during your laundry, which limits the release of 90% of microplastics.
- Buy second-hand clothes to extend product life and limit your environmental footprint.
How to care for elastane
We recommend washing at 30 degrees, short wash programs and avoiding spinning. This will reduce the microplastics released by your washing machine. We recommend using a filtering wash bag to limit the amount of toxic particles released. When ironing, use a maximum temperature of 150 degrees to avoid altering the elasticity or color of the fabric, and to ensure that your garment is well cared for.
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