Knickers. Invented by Petit Bateau in 1918, the humble undergarment is celebrating its 100 year
anniversary. Paying tribute to the top drawer favourite, we took a look at its extraordinary history and the
effect the cotton brief has had on our everyday lives.
From the Middle Ages up until the XIX century, women went bare under their clothing. Decorum dictated
that only a silk or canvas gown could be worn – sometimes decorated with Alençon lace and hidden
under several underskirts. Only men were allowed to wear what was called the ’culotte’, a type of long
john that was tied at the waist. In fact, women would have to wait until the end of the XIX century for
lingerie to be worn. Pioneered by the English, it was young debutants that enforced the new
undergarment as a means of modesty during their daily exercises. Quickly adopted due to the fashions
of the time; heavy hooped skirts made lingerie essential. Ruched at the waist with buttons, these long
bloomers ensured that ladies never revealed themselves when bending down. A fashion revolution
named ‘culotte’ in reference to the styles worn by men, these first knickers were in many ways different
to the traditional boxer: whilst men’s knickerbockers were closed, women’s underwear consisted of two
separate legs joined at the waist. It wasn’t until 1910 that underwear had a gusset and was shortened –
in step with current fashion. From that moment on, men, women and children all wore the same type of
woollen underwear.
In 1918, Etienne Valton, founder of a fabric business in Troyes, invented the very first pair of briefs. Inspired by a French nursery rhyme, ‘Mummy, do boats have little legs to reach the sea?’ he decided to cut the legs off a pair of long underwear. That first scissor cut gave birth to a range of cotton underwear that wasn’t just comfortable – but practical, too. Devoid of buttons or long legs, these elasticated briefs would change underwear, forever. Petit Bateau released a statement in 1920 that said, “Our company has flourished thanks to this new style of undergarment called, ‘article 400’ and renamed as the ‘petite culotte’”. Considered as an industry-changing innovation, the Petite Culotte received the ‘Grand Prix d’Innovation’ at the Paris Expo in 1937.
In 1918, Etienne Valton, founder of a fabric business in Troyes, invented the very first pair of briefs. Inspired by a French nursery rhyme, ‘Mummy, do boats have little legs to reach the sea?’ he decided to cut the legs off a pair of long underwear. That first scissor cut gave birth to a range of cotton underwear that wasn’t just comfortable – but practical, too. Devoid of buttons or long legs, these elasticated briefs would change underwear, forever. Petit Bateau released a statement in 1920 that said, “Our company has flourished thanks to this new style of undergarment called, ‘article 400’ and renamed as the ‘petite culotte’”. Considered as an industry-changing innovation, the Petite Culotte received the ‘Grand Prix d’Innovation’ at the Paris Expo in 1937.
