Acetate

What is acetate?

Cellulose acetate is a chemical and artificial material ( more exactly a polymer) that results from the reaction between various plants such as cotton linters or wood pulp, acetic acid and acetic anhydride. Its appearance is often confused with plastic, but its composition distinguishes it from the latter. Fun fact: the first LEGO brick was made of cellulose acetate in 1949!

It's a fiber with a slight sheen, comparable to silk, and it's also very soft and supple. Because it's made from plant fibers, cellulose acetate is biodegradable and hypoallergenic. Cellulose acetate is breathable and more resistant than plastic, making it mold-resistant. Cellulose acetate is generally used for spectacle frames, as it is more aesthetic and sophisticated than plastic. It is also used in cigarette filters. Cellulose acetate is also used in the textile industry, particularly for lining pants, skirts and coats. It is less static than polyester.

Where does acetate come from?

Originally, cellulose acetate was produced in Europe (Germany, France, Italy etc). Today, it is still produced in Europe, but has also been exported to other countries such as China, Argentina, Brazil, India etc....

What are the processing stages for acetate?

Acetate was first created in 1865, fiber in 1924. Here are the various ( somewhat complex) steps required to manufacture cellulose acetate.

To begin with, wood pulp (or cotton linter, depending on which is used) is dissolved in purified cellulose. The production of cellulose acetate yarn begins with a reaction between purified cellulose, acetic acid and acetic anhydride, using sulfuric acid as a catalyst. This mixture then undergoes hydrolysis (the decomposition of a substance using water) to remove the sulfate and impart the desired properties to the product. The acid resin flakes are then dissolved in acetone, and the solution filtered.
The next step is to extrude the spinning paste, enabling the solvent to be recovered and purified for reuse.
Finally, the newly created filaments will be drawn and wound onto spools to obtain the final product.

To manufacture eyewear, acetate plates need to be created. The first step is to grind the wood pulp (or other material), then mix the powder with acetic acid. 6 months of dry storage are then required to create the plates. These plates are then colored as required, and cut as the designers wish.

Is acetate compatible with ethical and responsible fashion?

As previously explained cellulose acetate comes from cellulose fibers such as cotton linter. It is a biodegradable material that can normally decompose after use.
However, depending on the elements used, it may (or may not) be compatible with ethical and responsible fashion.

First of all, the cotton would have to be organic. Conventional cotton has a high environmental impact, using many pesticides and insecticides. It also requires huge quantities of water to grow. Organic cotton, on the other hand, has a smaller environmental footprint.
Sometimes, for purely economic reasons, manufacturers don't even use natural fibers but polyester or nylon, substances of petroleum origin!
Many chemicals are used in the manufacture of cellulose acetate, and these plasticizers may or may not be of petroleum origin.

So cellulose acetate can be considered an eco-friendly material if the cotton is organic and the plasticizers are natural. If this is the case, the decomposition of the product will be truly biodegradable.

To reduce your environmental footprint, you can also buy your acetate products from second hand or from our Eco x ception selection for women or for men.

How to care for acetate?

To preserve acetate for as long as possible, a few good habits are in order. Acetate is extremely sensitive to twisting. For this reason, it's best to wash by hand, or in a very gentle machine cycle if hand-washing isn't an option for you. Eliminate spinning!
Finally, acetate is highly reactive to alcohol, and even a drop can discolor it. So be careful to keep it away from perfumes and other household products!


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