33rd édition of Hyères Festival

Hyères Festival took place at the infamous Villa Noailles from the 26th – 30th April. A showcase of grass root talent and ground zero for trend prediction, the fashion festival in the south of France has long been a think tank for art, innovation and sustainability. In fact, eco-awareness became a dominant theme with several collections leaving lasting impressions on the jury and audience alike. This year has been a celebration of design, but also ecological engagement with representations of craftsmanship manifested in expert leather work from Marie Eve Lecavalier, fibreglass from Jef Montes, overprinting by Antonina Sedokova, sustainability by Linda Kokkonen and represented in distinctive ways by designers like Manuela Fidalgo and Ester Manas. Dominant themes were categorised as oversized: Marie-Eve Lecavalier, Ester Manas, Regina Weber, Antonia Sedakova. Deconstructed: Linda Kokkonen, Rushemy Botter, Sarah Bruylant and textural: ElaFidalgo, Anna Isoniemi. Yet all finalists were tied to a common thread, the desire to win one of three iconic titles ‘Prix’ at this year’s festival.

Sarah Bruylant – Belgium - Womenswear

The Belgian designer Sarah Bruylant presented a collection of counterculture pieces in the framework of current fashion. A woman that admires individuals that aren’t afraid to be different or considered strange, her aesthetic touched on the effect of social media and the illusion of perfection, showcasing a collection full of colour, volume and silhouettes that challenged the wearer: a biting criticism at current societal pressures. Each outfit was accessorised with a wig as a semaphore for hiding and accentuating identity.

Jef Montes - Netherlands - Womenswear

Translating his attraction to the shoreline into his Hyères collection, Jef Montes offered onlookers a texturally rich and theatrical interpretation on the fourth element, combining a stormy aesthetic with next-generation innovation to create his signature fibreglass garments. Paying tribute to the materials’ true application, nylon, copper and carbon added strong provenance to the North Sea overtones in this collection.

Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh - Netherlands – Menswear

The latest collection from the artistic duo, Rushemy Botter’s and Lisi Herrebrugh’s ‘Fish or Fight’ pays tribute to their respective origins. A cohesion of sportswear separates, statement colour blocking and floral accents pushed the boundaries of conventional style, with eccentric props that posed as accessories quickly become conversation starters for the wide message post-show – with memorable takeaways like the inflatable dolphin and plastic bag boa.

Manuela Fidalgo - Spain - Womenswear

A collection designed to protect the female form from oppression, Manuela Fidalgo’s layered silhouettes were resplendent with colour and extravagant proportions, pushing the imagination to experience her Majorcan roots with handicraft detailing and patchwork swatches.

Ester Manas - France - Womenswear

Body positivity was the buzzword at Ester Manas womenswear showcase. Demanding models that defined her modern muse, each piece was crafted to highlight curves and celebrate size – representing not just the ideal, but an inclusive tribute of womanhood – with pieces that every female can feel confident enough to wear.

Linda Kokkonen – Finland - Womenswear

A collection crafted entirely from reclaimed and deadstock material, its thanks to Linda Kokkonen that Hyères 18 will be remembered as the year that represented sustainable fashion. A gothic-romantic collection in bold black and red colourways, the Finish designer oscillated between a gentle blend of modernism and traditions with longline silhouettes and touches of upcycled lace.

Marie Eve Lecavalier - Canada - Womenswear

Shining a light on the urban female, Marie Eve Lecavalier’s womenswear collection, ‘Come Get Trippy With Us’ was a balancing act of rock chic style tropes and eco-responsible values – represented in her wide-leg pants and denim skirts made from recycled materials. Her coup de grace was her expert leatherwork that was deemed irreproachable.

Anna Isoniemi – Finland – Womenswear

A back to the future re-edit of 60s styling, Anna Isoniemi’s ‘Racing Stripes’ showcase paid tribute to the high shine allure of disco culture with sequin adornment and splashes of red and orange – in particular, the contrast rainbow striped and draughtboard gowns that made a big impact on and off the runway.

Antonina Sedakova – Russia - Menswear

Imbuing this signature collection with souvenirs of her childhood, Antonina Sedakova’s menswear offering was deep with political meaning – referencing the 80s USSR military uniform via surplus silhouettes, oversized proportions and durable detailing. Originally from Russia, her classic separates intermixed with statement designs for a uniquely personalised approach to the design process.

Regina Weber – Germany – Womenswear

Attempting to make her favourite season last a little longer, Regina Weber created a bucolic collection of synthetic florals in soft pastels and feminine silhouettes for a collection that truly made spring come to life.

Winners of Hyères Festival 2018

For the 33rd consecutive year, the famous villa Noailles has hosted the Hyeres International Festival of Fashion and Photography, presided by Pascale Mussard. Discover each collection that defined the weekend and take a look at the winning faces of this year’s iconic competition.
This year sees three new names win the industry’s most sought-after titles: Le Grand Prix du jury première vision, le Prix Chloé and le Prix Galeries Lafayette. On the podium:

Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh Grand prix du jury première vision

Marie-Ève Lecavalier Prix Chloé & special mention

Ester Manas Prix Galeries Lafayette

Public recognition : Sarah Bruylant

You have until the 27th May to see the collections shown at this year’s festival at Villa Noailles.

© Copyright photos par Régis Pennel - Founder